New Page 1

DOG TRAINING-

I've seen and heard about different methods people have to break and train their pups. Most have the same basic plan- Put the young dogs into a running pen, add a few bunnies, add a dog house and automatic feeder, wait from two to six weeks and then remove your "started" dog. I never did understand this method, although it has probably worked for a few guys. I always wondered how many dogs are actually ruined by this method. Seems to me when this procedure is used, the dog hunts when he wants to, eats when he wants to, sleeps when he wants to, and quits a track when he wants to. Now, think of the beagles you now have out in your kennel. If my dogs performed like this, I'd probably raise chickens! When I hit the bushes with my dogs, I want them to hunt correctly, but they better hunt for me! I have a different approach to training. Let me explain.

The Puppy Pen-

If my pups are not sold when weaned, or I plan on keeping a select few, they are introduced to my "puppy pen". This enclosure is only about 35' wide and 40' long. It has short weeds and a manmade brush pile in the middle. A San Juan rabbit lives in this enclosure. The pup or pups are collared and led to the pen and released. They are encouraged to hunt. I walk with them until the rabbit is jumped. When they begin to chase the bunny, they are encouraged again and again. Boy, do they get excited! The rabbit usually gets into the brush pile, out of site, and the pups then need to use their noses to find the rabbit again. I do not jump the rabbit for them. If they want another chase, they need to sniff around and find the bunny themselves. You may be surprised how few trips it takes to get the pups on the right track here (no pun intended). I've had pups get this procedure down pat is as little as two trips to the puppy pen. After each training time, the pup is led back to the kennel on a leash. When the pups get fast enough to actually catch the first rabbit, they are then finished with this puppy pen. One important thing that the pups learn here is the interaction between me and them. Now I feel the pup is hunting for me and is also getting collar and leash broke! More than once I've went to see pups in a running pen and the owner actually carried the dog 100 yards to the running pen. The pup never had a collar on in its life, so was never taught to lead. How frustrating! People advertise their pups as "started", then if you purchase them, you will need to drag them to your truck!

These first training lessons needs to be kept short and exciting for the pups. I never take more than two at a time. Ten to fifteen minutes each lesson is plenty. If the pups don't track the hidden bunny for the second chase, they go back to the kennel and will be taken again later, sometimes even an hour later. They catch on fast!

After "graduating" from the puppy pen, scented drags are sometimes fun to use with the pups until they are old enough, at six months, for the running pen.

THE RUNNING PEN-

I do not have the room at my house for a running pen, but have access to one an hour away. My good friend owns this pen and breaks several dogs each year. He taught me his procedure and I was impressed! His methods I adapted to my puppy pen. Pups to be started here should be six months old. Leading the kenneled dogs to the pen, staying with the dogs, encouragement and discipline, and one aspect that many trainers overlook- catching the dogs when the time has come to quit the hunt. (How many times have we all tried to catch the hounds when it's time to go home, only having to run down the dogs to leash them up?) Here also, he teaches the dogs to hunt for the handler, not for themselves. This would also be the ideal time to teach the dogs to come to you while using the "tone" on an e-collar. Call them to you while repeatedly using the tone button. When they respond correctly, praise them and give them kind words. NEVER tone them in to punish them! This same technique works with a whistle, too.

These entire training procedures last from 30 minutes to two hours each. They should be done several times a week if possible. Usually within 30 days or less, as much of the potential available at this age is brought out of the young dogs and actual hunting and shooting of wild rabbits are needed to complete the training as the pup grows and matures. (I've sometimes daydreamed about the ideal running pen, 10 to 20 acres, complete with a couple of resident pen raised doe deer. What better way not to have deer dogs if they constantly see and smell them while being trained on rabbits!)

Now I know what you are probably thinking. "Sure sounds good. But I don't have that much spare time!" I fully understand that. I don't have the time or space myself. This is where an experienced trainer is worth more than he charges. I was very lucky to meet my trainer last year and we have become good friends. Just think about this- We all spend good money for well bred pups, or take the time to breed our own dogs for the best possible results in a pup, so why should we then settle for less than the utmost in training?

When I raised my first litter of beagles in 1970, I used an old red beagle male as my puppy trainer. This was, and still is, the training method used by some. My old male was good in his day, but was slowing down quite a bit. I had an uncle in Dowagiac, Michigan that always kept 10 to 20 beagles and coonhounds, his name was Jack Pasley. He gave me some advice once about this training method- "Be careful. You might be training your pups to be slow!" I didn't really understand that back then, but now it makes more sense. I feel there is a time when an older dog can help pups. Just be confident that what the older dog is teaching them is what you want the pups to do! Uncle Jack passed away in 1982. I still miss him.

I am confident that when I sell a young pup as "started", it is showing as much potential as its young age will allow. How well and how fast the young dog finishes out is up to the new owner. Good Hunting !